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Controller/Stick General Questions and Discussion

The Q4 is phenomenal, I highly recommend it. I also highly recommend just jumping headfirst into a high quality stick. Low quality ones don't feel the same, so they're not good indicators on if you feel comfortable playing stick or not. And like Kidpanda said, it's probably more worth it to buy a high quality stick instead of buying a low quality one and modding it; unless you like the idea of modding a stick and making it your own.
 
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thank you very much @Icky (and sorry i didnt see your reply until now)!! i also feel like going for a high quality stick would end up being the better/safer option for me, i think i will save modding for another day. i really appreciate the reply!! cant wait for christmas to come around B)
 
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Yeah so my stick doesn't work with the laptop I have that can actually run Skullgirls. It's a Hori V3; it works fine on Win7 and PS3 but Win8 is not supported so this thing is kind of dead weight unless I mod in a good PCB. So I can vouch for just going for a high-quality stick from the onset.

On that note, does anybody have a recommendation for a good 6-button gamepad? I need something to tide me over until I can get this stick working with my computer but I don't really have a lot of money to spend. I have a 4-button gamepad but it's just extremely difficult for me to use with Skullgirls.
 
I've heard that the MadCatz ones are good but tend to break after 6-12 months of heavy use. But if you only need it as a temporary fix then that might not be a problem.

Also Win8 is the worst.
 
Yeah so far that seems like the best solution but I'm worried about compatibility. I'd prefer getting the PS3 one since I can use it for that as well, but first and foremost I want a controller that works on Win8. I'm hearing conflicting accounts of whether the PS3 version works in 64-bit versions of modern windows so I'm going to do a bit more research into this. Thanks.
 
One place you might want to ask is in SRK's tech talk section. Lots of really knowledgeable people there.
 
Ran into this graphic on SRK tech talk just now, figured I'd post it here:
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Recently had some money to throw away and pre-ordered a Hori RAP v4 Kai. Does anyone have some good tips on how to adjust to a stick? I use keyboard for most of my fighting games but I've also had to get good with a Dualshock to play some Ps3 games.
 
It's pretty much just practicing with it. The big thing to work on are stick motions.
 
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I've practiced with a stick before in arcades but I never knew I was holding it wrong. Which are the inputs that are the hardest, usually? Is it really that crucial to get a octagonal gate?
 
Has anybody ever had any issues using the Sanwa OBSF-30 Buttons? Specifically with the mechanical switches ( SW-68 )? I was using a MadCatz TE for about 4-5 years without issue, but I finally decided to mod it and give it that personal feel. I purchased new buttons ( the Sanwas mentioned above ) and after about 4-5 months, a total of 5 out of the 6 buttons I bought started to crap the bed. I took them apart, and it turns out that the mechanical switches ( SW-68 ) have lost their spring, so after pressing the button they pretty much just stay depressed. Extremely annoying, and happened mid tournament.

Anybody else have issues with these? Thankfully I have extras that are working fine so I can fix my stick for free, but very annoying and makes me lose faith in purchasing their products again in the future.

Meow-Professor said:
Is it really that crucial to get a octagonal gate?

The restrictor gate is 100% your preference. Most sticks come with a square gate, and most players favor the square gate. Personally, I use octagonal with a bat top and a heavier spring than most sticks come with by default, so I am definitely the minority. It's important for you to just try different things and see what works best for you.
 
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Meow-Professor said:
Recently had some money to throw away and pre-ordered a Hori RAP v4 Kai. Does anyone have some good tips on how to adjust to a stick? I use keyboard for most of my fighting games but I've also had to get good with a Dualshock to play some Ps3 games.

practice a lot of "U" motions
 
I just need to be kind of definite, considering changing the gate for a Hayabusa lever seems like it'll be a project. Hori themselves, as far as I know, don't seem to support changing the gate so I'll need to get a Sanwa restrictor and drill holes into it for screws. I've already decided on changing the Kuro buttons to Sanwa eventually, I might wait until then. First I'll need to buy a drill...
 
Meow-Professor said:
I just need to be kind of definite, considering changing the gate for a Hayabusa lever seems like it'll be a project. Hori themselves, as far as I know, don't seem to support changing the gate so I'll need to get a Sanwa restrictor and drill holes into it for screws. I've already decided on changing the Kuro buttons to Sanwa eventually, I might wait until then. First I'll need to buy a drill...
why? i have the same stick has you, works like a champ
 
Wenzel said:
why? i have the same stick has you, works like a champ
Doesn't it come with a square gate? All the resources I can find seem to say a Sanwa restrictor needs to be edited to fit in there. If that isn't the case, that's awesome.
 
The vast majority of people use a square gate.

Where did you get the idea that octagate was the norm? Personally I find octagonal gates very awkward on a stick.

On a square gate, you have even space for each direction, on an octagonal gate, you actually have NARROWER diagonals and bigger cardinals, much easier to mess things up imo
 
Tomo009 said:
The vast majority of people use a square gate.

Where did you get the idea that octagate was the norm? Personally I find octagonal gates very awkward on a stick.

On a square gate, you have even space for each direction, on an octagonal gate, you actually have NARROWER diagonals and bigger cardinals, much easier to mess things up imo

I didn't mean to imply it was the normal. I know square is the most used but most threads I've read seem to imply octagonal is the best, because of quarter-circles and 360s. That's why I'm asking which is better, because I know people have different opinions but I'd like to know why people like octagonal. Square seems like it'd be a bit finnicky to do quarter circles, but I don't really plan to ride the gate for anything other then full circles. Hopefully.

I'm just trying to find out if it's worth it to bother changing the gate, considering how extremely lazy I am.
 
Octagonal gate is made for people that can only ever ride the gate, it actually makes it really hard to do motions if you DON'T ride the gate and doing clean DPs is an exercise.

You can of course get used to any gate.

Check out this google images page

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=...Mv0VIWOF5WE8gXQ-IHwBQ&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&dpr=0.9

Sorry for the dumb link, but it shows what I mean, the amount of space for diagonals on octagate is only 6%!

Look how small a zone you have to get a diagonal if you don't ride the gate compared to square, it is actually pretty tiny.

The only real benefit I can see is if you already have muscle memory for octagonal gate. Or you want to ride the gate super super hard for everything.
 
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Tomo009 said:
Octagonal gate is made for people that can only ever ride the gate, it actually makes it really hard to do motions if you DON'T ride the gate and doing clean DPs is an exercise.

You can of course get used to any gate.

Check out this google images page

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=...Mv0VIWOF5WE8gXQ-IHwBQ&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&dpr=0.9

Sorry for the dumb link, but it shows what I mean, the amount of space for diagonals on octagate is only 6%!

Look how small a zone you have to get a diagonal if you don't ride the gate compared to square, it is actually pretty tiny.

The only real benefit I can see is if you already have muscle memory for octagonal gate. Or you want to ride the gate super super hard for everything.

Wow, that's actually really helpful. Thanks.
 
Meow-Professor said:
I've practiced with a stick before in arcades but I never knew I was holding it wrong. Which are the inputs that are the hardest, usually? Is it really that crucial to get a octagonal gate?
Have you been experimenting with different ways to hold a stick? I used to grip my balltop stick like a battop, but once I switched to "Wineglass" grip it felt so much better.
 
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Kiyobi said:
Have you been experimenting with different ways to hold a stick? I used to grip my balltop stick like a battop, but once I switched to "Wineglass" grip it felt so much better.
this
 
Kiyobi said:
Have you been experimenting with different ways to hold a stick? I used to grip my balltop stick like a battop, but once I switched to "Wineglass" grip it felt so much better.

The stick's been ordered but I haven't received it just yet. I had gripped it in my hand like it was a lever, basically just holding it so the top of the ball was in the palm of my hand. To be honest I never really saw the appeal to the stick because at the time I didn't know I was holding it wrong and it kept hurting my hand. Only recently I found out wineglass grip existed and it seems like the best option for me. That's what I'm hoping to use when I get it. I found a video explaining the different ways to hold it and the alternatives seem uncomfortable.

Also, here's a quick question; does anyone know if the Hori Kuro buttons are 30mm or 33mm? I'm looking to replace them with Sanwa but I can't find any information online to the Kuro's size.
 
Meow-Professor said:
Also, here's a quick question; does anyone know if the Hori Kuro buttons are 30mm or 33mm? I'm looking to replace them with Sanwa but I can't find any information online to the Kuro's size.
30mm is standard. If it's not listed I'd bet on it being that.
 
Vadsamoht said:
30mm is standard. If it's not listed I'd bet on it being that.
Great, thanks very much.
 
Meow-Professor said:
The stick's been ordered but I haven't received it just yet. I had gripped it in my hand like it was a lever, basically just holding it so the top of the ball was in the palm of my hand. To be honest I never really saw the appeal to the stick because at the time I didn't know I was holding it wrong and it kept hurting my hand. Only recently I found out wineglass grip existed and it seems like the best option for me. That's what I'm hoping to use when I get it. I found a video explaining the different ways to hold it and the alternatives seem uncomfortable.
That was just like me! Don't be afraid to try different grips, you'll eventually find one that clicks and just feels right. Once you do, just slowly work in those motions into your hand muscles in training mode and you'll be golden.

If it's the video I'm thinking of, my wineglass grip is different. Instead of the shaft in between middle and ring, I have it in between ring and pinky. Don't be afraid to mix it up~
 
hell it took me about 4 years until I realized I prefer a bat top lol I hold the stick sorta like a pen, i hate the wine glass grip so a bat top works great for me.
 
I don't think the modifications to the wineglass grip matter at all - IMO it's more to make the position of the thumb and first two fingers easier to understand. Basically, if you're pushing the stick to the let you want to be using your thumb and if you're pushing it to the right you want to be using your index and middle fingers. fwiw I can't stand having the shaft between my fingers so I keep them all to the left of the stick.
 
tsk... I've been thinking on making a custom stick of my own but i'm kinda afraid my sub par skills with electronics might mess up the whole thing when moving the parts to it's case. any tips on that sorta stuff, like soldering?
 
So, I've decided to get custom art for my stick printed. I've made myself the design, but I have a couple of questions about the process of getting the art. I've decided to get a laminated label from Fed Ex Office/Kinko's, as I've looked online and that seems like a good, and popular budget option. So here's my questions: First of all, how much does this usually cost? If I'm correct, my stick's art is going to need to be around 16.75 by 10.75, so how expensive will that be? Secondly, I can't find it on the website. I can see their lamination service, but I can't find their labels in particular. Should I just get a normal lamination on a print and just attach it myself?
Finally, is there a way I can tell if my art might be a bit pixelated? I've got a character emblem originally 100 x 100 and I've resized it a bit, and I'm not sure how it'll look in person. Is there any way to get around this?
yes I know this isn't a good place to ask this, I'm too lazy to make a SRK account and I don't like SRK anyways
 
okay art and how it might look pixelated. what dps is the image set to? Higher the dps the higher resolution your image is going to be be. how ever your image will also get bigger you can always scale it back down to the size you want but be sure to keep the higher resolution to prevent pixelation. a good dsp would be around 300. With the sticker idk how much it's going to cost you, sorry.
 
@Meow-Professor - if you haven't already, check out www.tek-innovations.com. I know you already said you were looking at FedEx/Kinko's, but this site has a lot of useful information for sizing up your art and the recommendations for getting a solid design that isn't pixelated. Even if you don't use their service, it may be worth visiting and reading up on their suggestions before printing your own.
 
That site also has templates for many kinds of arcade sticks.
 
dMags said:
@Meow-Professor - if you haven't already, check out www.tek-innovations.com. I know you already said you were looking at FedEx/Kinko's, but this site has a lot of useful information for sizing up your art and the recommendations for getting a solid design that isn't pixelated. Even if you don't use their service, it may be worth visiting and reading up on their suggestions before printing your own.
Thanks, that is actually where I got the template from.
I've been using the Hori Vx Kai template just to see how my design would work, but I'll probably have to wait untill someone releases a template for my stick.
Actually, right there's another question; are there any templates that would fit the Hori RAP V4 Kai? The V3/VX Kai template I've been using seems to be similar enough to scope out the basic design, but I now need to find one that would work or wait untill someone makes one. If there is one and I just can't find it, I'd love to have it.

Ninja said:
okay art and how it might look pixelated. what dps is the image set to? Higher the dps the higher resolution your image is going to be be. how ever your image will also get bigger you can always scale it back down to the size you want but be sure to keep the higher resolution to prevent pixelation. a good dsp would be around 300. With the sticker idk how much it's going to cost you, sorry.

The template is already set at 300 DPI, but thanks.
I should've worded my question a bit better. I'm not exactly a tech-y person, and I've never printed anything out image/photo-wise. This is going to sound really stupid, but back to that character emblem I was talking about. It was 100 pixels, and I re-sized it to 700 x 700. If I zoom in a bit, I can see the pixelation, and when I zoom out normally it looks nice. but will that show up when I actually print it? Will I see pixelation on the image? Considering the area it is going to cover is pretty big, considering how large the fightstick is, I'm worried it might look bad.

Thanks for answering my questions, by the way. I'm completely new to fightsticks so this is all new to me.
 
nah you're fine. i think it'll be okay. now just take that 700 x 700 image and look at how large it would be in cms from there you can scale it to the size you want keeping the resolution of the image fairly high.
 
Meow-Professor said:
but will that show up when I actually print it? Will I see pixelation on the image? Considering the area it is going to cover is pretty big, considering how large the fightstick is, I'm worried it might look bad.
If you're really not sure, head to a print shop and ask them to print a proof for you. Most places will do a simple black & white test print on regular paper for very cheap, or even free.
 
LordCeno said:
If you're really not sure, head to a print shop and ask them to print a proof for you. Most places will do a simple black & white test print on regular paper for very cheap, or even free.
Alright, I'll do that when I have a chance.
That's another thing to add, though, that if anyone has an idea about the price; my whole design is in black and white.
 
It shouldn't be too pricy. Most of the cost comes from whatever paper stock you use. The last time I had something printed it turned out the girl working the counter was an old friend of mine, so she worked close with me to make sure everything came out perfect. She told me that large areas of black need better quality paper to print well, so I ended up using a poster stock which cost a bit more. I had two printed in case I made a mistake while cutting, and it came out to a bit over $20 US.
 
LordCeno said:
It shouldn't be too pricy. Most of the cost comes from whatever paper stock you use. The last time I had something printed it turned out the girl working the counter was an old friend of mine, so she worked close with me to make sure everything came out perfect. She told me that large areas of black need better quality paper to print well, so I ended up using a poster stock which cost a bit more. I had two printed in case I made a mistake while cutting, and it came out to a bit over $20 US.
Is that with lamination included, or without? Either way, it's nicely cheap. Thanks.
 
Ninja said:
tsk... I've been thinking on making a custom stick of my own but i'm kinda afraid my sub par skills with electronics might mess up the whole thing when moving the parts to it's case. any tips on that sorta stuff, like soldering?
For soldering a good beginners resource is this: http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf

We can walk you through most of the stuff but it really comes down to you being confident enough to actually do it. Two things you need to figure out first are where you are going to get the PCB from and what you are going to do for the case.
 
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